Barcelona

When to go

What to see

Sagrada Familia, 2 hours max. Book tickets online at least 3 weeks ahead for summer. Standard entry from around 26 EUR. The Passion facade is free to see from outside. Skip the tower climb unless you really want a view (from around 15 EUR extra, cramped lift).

Park Güell, 1.5 hours. The monumental zone requires a ticket (from around 10 EUR). The free part of the park is huge and mostly identical. Save your money and walk the hill for the same view.

Gothic Quarter, 2-3 hours. Free to wander. Start at Plaça del Rei, then follow the narrow streets to the Cathedral. Skip the overpriced cafés on the main squares. A coffee on Carrer de la Princesa costs half as much.

Picasso Museum, 2 hours. From around 12 EUR. Best on Sunday after 3 PM when it is free, but expect a 45 minute queue. The collection is focused on Picasso's early years, not his famous Cubist works. Fans will enjoy it. Casual visitors can skip it.

La Boqueria Market, 1 hour. Free entry. Go at 9 AM to avoid crushing crowds. Do not eat at the tourist stalls on the main aisles. Head to the back for better prices and fresher food. A smoothie costs from around 5 EUR at the front, from around 3 EUR at the back.

Montjuïc Castle, 1.5 hours. From around 5 EUR for the lift up. The walk is steep but the gardens are free. The castle itself is a military fortress. Skip the interior unless you like cannons.

Barceloneta Beach, As long as you like. Free. The sand is man-made. The water is clean. The pickpocket density is high. Watch your bag. Do not accept drinks from strangers.

Skip if short on time: Casa Batlló (from around 36 EUR entry is steep for a 45 minute visit, better seen from outside) and the Camp Nou stadium tour (tourist trap, from around 28 EUR for a walk through an empty stadium).

3-day itinerary

Day 1: Gothic Quarter and Las Ramblas 9:00 AM, Start at Plaça de Catalunya. Walk down Las Ramblas fast. Do not stop for the street performers. Your goal is the Boqueria Market by 9:30. Grab a breakfast of jamón and cheese at the back stalls. 10:30 AM, Enter the Gothic Quarter. Get lost. Find the Cathedral (free before 12:45 PM). See the cloister with the geese. 1:00 PM, Lunch at a tapas bar off Carrer de Ferran. Avoid anything with English menus outside. 2:30 PM, Picasso Museum (book in advance for 3 PM). 5:00 PM, Walk to El Born. Grab a vermouth at a local bar. 8:00 PM, Dinner in Gràcia neighborhood, not the Gothic Quarter.

Day 2: Gaudi and Eixample 8:00 AM, Arrive at Sagrada Familia for your 9 AM slot. You need 2 hours inside. 11:00 AM, Walk 15 minutes to Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site (free entrance, from around 8 EUR if you want the guided tour). It is a former hospital with stunning architecture. 1:00 PM, Lunch at a local restaurant on Carrer de la Diputació. 2:30 PM, Casa Milà (La Pedrera). Book a ticket for the roof terrace. Skip the apartment tour. 4:00 PM, Walk up Passeig de Gràcia. See Casa Batlló from outside. Spend 30 seconds. 5:00 PM, Rest at a café. 7:00 PM, Drinks at a rooftop bar in Eixample.

Day 3: Montjuïc and the Beach 9:00 AM, Take the funicular from Paral·lel metro (free with T-Casual card) up Montjuïc. Walk the gardens. Visit the Joan Miró Foundation (from around 10 EUR, 1.5 hours). 12:00 PM, Walk down to the Olympic Ring. Skip the stadium. 1:00 PM, Lunch at the Mercat de la Boqueria again (different stalls this time). 2:30 PM, Head to Barceloneta. Rent a towel from a kiosk (from around 5 EUR deposit). Swim. 5:00 PM, Walk the boardwalk to the W Hotel for a drink. 7:00 PM, Final dinner in the Barceloneta neighborhood. Seafood.

Where to stay

Getting around

The metro is efficient and safe. A single journey costs from around 3 EUR. The T-Casual card (10 rides, from around 11 EUR) is the best value. You can share it. The T-Usual card (unlimited for 30 days, from around 21 EUR) is for longer stays. Do not buy tickets at the machines with cash. Use a contactless card or phone. The machine rejects cash more often than it accepts it. The tourist bus is a rip-off. It costs from around 35 EUR for a day. Walk or take the metro instead. Taxis are metered. A ride across the city costs from around 15 EUR. Use the Free Now app to avoid scams. Avoid the airport bus (Aerobús) if you are staying outside the center. It is from around 7 EUR but takes 35 minutes to Plaça de Catalunya. The metro is cheaper (from around 5 EUR from the airport, but you need to change lines at Torrassa). I use the Renfe train from the airport to Sants station. It is from around 5 EUR and faster than the bus.

Budget

Budget traveler? Stay in a hostel in Gràcia. Eat from markets like Boqueria. Use the T-Casual card. Visit free museums on Sundays. You can do Barcelona on from around 100 EUR a day if you skip the paid sights.

Mistakes to avoid

The pickpocket rule: Never keep your phone in your back pocket. Not on the metro. Not on Las Ramblas. Not at the beach. I have seen three phones stolen in a single hour. Use a zipped bag worn across your chest.

The overpriced paella: Do not eat paella on Las Ramblas. It is frozen, mass-produced, and costs from around 20 EUR for something worth from around 8 EUR. A proper paella is only served at lunch, typically around 14:00. Go to Can Solé in Barceloneta (from around 35 EUR for two, needs booking).

Booking too late: You cannot walk into the Sagrada Familia without a ticket in summer. Queues for same-day tickets stretch 2 hours. Book at least 2 weeks ahead. The same applies to Park Güell.

The tapas delusion: A full tapas meal is not the way locals eat. Tapas are small plates meant to accompany a drink. A real meal is a menú del día: three courses from around 12 EUR at lunch. Look for chalkboard menus outside restaurants.

The taxi con: Some taxis at the airport add fake surcharges. The legal rate from the airport is a flat from around 39 EUR to the city center. Anything above that is a scam. Pay by card.

The crowded metro at rush hour: Avoid metro lines L1 and L3 between 8-9 AM and 6-7 PM. It is sardine city. Walk instead. Barcelona is a walkable city.

The water warning: Do not drink tap water in Barcelona without a filter. The taste is terrible due to high mineral content. Buy a 1.5L bottle from around 0.60 EUR at any supermarket. Do not buy from street kiosks where it costs from around 2 EUR.

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